Bowland



U ITED STATES ROWLAND s". NORTON,

-PATENT- QFFIOE.

OF TROY, NEW YORK.

.SPECIPIOATION forming part of Letters Patent 1%. 302,423, dated July 22; 1884. li ation filea'd i- 30, 1883. mod-e1) r. V

To whom it may concern.-

Be itknownthat I, ROWLAND S. NOR-TON,

of the city of Troy, county of Rensselaer, and

State of New York, a citizen of the United States, have invented a new and useful Im-, provement in Collars, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relatesto improvements in the manufacture of collars in which two or more of the body-plies are integral with the corresponding band-plies; and the object of my invention is to construct the loose edges of the end seams of the body part wide enough to permit of their being. neatly secured by arow of stitching after the collarhas been turned, and at the same .time construetthe corresponding edges of the band part narrow enough to revent any interference withthe :smooth appearance of the band ends when turned. I attain this object in the manner illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in

, whiche Figure 1 is a plan view of the face side of my improved collar when finished. Fig. 2' is a plan view of one end ofthe plies forming said collar before turning. Fig; 3 is a plan view of same turned and finished. Fig. 4 is a cross-section ofthe hem or seam and a portion of the plies, taken at the broken line a b. Fig. 5 is a cross-section of same; taken at the broken line 0 (1. 1

' Similarletters refer to si milar'parts th roughout the several views..

The collar may be made of any number of plies or thicknesses.

In Figs. 2 and 3 I have shown one end:of a collar made of two plies, A and B. The plies are placed together wrong side out and stitched around their edges, except on one side, as shown quired only in the bodypart 'of the collar, which is'that portion above the row of stitching F, thelower portion serving as a band. Itiis-very-desirable to have the loose edges H of "such a width that when the plies are turned theedgeswill be caught by the row of stitching D,which: secures them in a smooth at G in the band. portion should be very nar-' row, for the reason that the curved shape of the edges would cause them to full up and give thecollar an untidyaPpearancewhen the plies are turned from the position in Fig. 2 to that in Fig. 3. A wide sea-m across the ends of thebody of the collar is very desirable to give it strength and stiffness. The only attempt heretofore made to accomplish this result has been by the process of guttering. which consists in pushing the seam farther in between the pliesaft-er theyhave been turned right side out; but the end of the seam next the-band part coui'd not be pushed in on account of the angle formed with the projecting band end; I consequently the turned-in edges H ran obliquely to the end of the collar, and were onlysecured at one endby the stitching D.

I have ascertained that by employing a suitable gage, substantially of the character shown in my Patent X0. 280,7 58, dated July 3, 1883, I can run on the seam-line O in Fig. 2, so as to have a wider seam on the body part than on the band part, as shown. I therefore cut my fabric with the wide edge H projecting H and G, I mean the distance from the stitched or run line C to the extreme edge of the plies nearest said line.

\Vhen two or. more plies of cloth are placed together wrong side out and sewed together, asat 0, they are said by collar-manufacturers to be run together, and the seam so formed is called aruiisea1n, as distinguished from a seam formed "by stitching them together again afterbeing turned right side out, as at D and E, and the width of the loose edgesH and G would be called the width of the run seam.

By cutting the plies to form a narrow seam at the end of the band portion a saving in material' is effected. For example, supposing it is In this way I am able to desired to have the seam on the ends of band portion one-eighth of an inch wide and that on the ends-of the body portion one-fourth of an inch wide, the band portion might be cut long enough-to run a fourth-inch seam on the band as well as body ends, and the band ends afterward trimmed down to an eighth-of-aninch seam. By this arrangement one-fourth inch in length of fabric would be wasted for every collar, and it would be difficult to trim the round band ends smoothly after the plies are run together, and it is also more difficult to run a wide seam on a round end' than a narrow one.

The essential point of the invention is to have the end seam (inner run seam) of uniform width'and wide enough to be caughtand held by the row of stitching D, the body and band parts of the collar being integral do this the run seam in the ends of the body part must be wider than can be permitted in the band ends, for the reason that a wide seam in the band ends could not be turned so as to r present a neat appearance. This improved method gives a run seam of uniform width across the end of the body part of the-collar, and wide enough to be caught by the row of stitching D, while the seam on the band. ends is narrow enough to permit of a nice finish when turned.

Vhat I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

A collar having the body-edge H made wider and extended farther from the run seam Gthan the band-edge G; thus producing a uniform wide seam across the end of the body and a uniform narrow seam across the end of the band, as and for the purpose specified.

- Iu' testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 26th day of January, 1883.

, ROVLAND S. NORTON.

- Vitnesses:

W. H. HOLLISTER, Jr., JOHN T. BOOTH. 

